Destination Uruguay!

The Aughey explorers were off once again. This time to a land far, far away…Uruguay!  When we initially told friends that we were going on vacation to Uruguay, the common response was, “Uruguay?  Really?  Why Uruguay?”  The answer is simple, because our dear friends Edi and Richard packed up and moved from Oak Ridge, Tennessee to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay earlier in the year.

Uruguay is a small, conservative country with no prescribed religion. The population is just over 3.4 million or roughly that of Los Angeles.  It is an agrarian society with over 12 million cows. 11 % of the population live in the countryside and the remainder live in the coastal areas. Its people are kind, gentle and friendly.  They comprise mainly of immigrants or expatriates. Of its population, 60% are of Spanish descent, 30% Italian, 4% African and 6% other.

After a 3 hour drive from Sarasota to Miami International, a 9 hour flight from Miami to Santiago (Chile), a 3 hour flight from Santiago to Montevideo (Uruguay’s capitol), and a 3 hour drive from Montevideo to Colonia we arrived! It was a long journey but very much worth it!

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento is a small town that borders the Rio de la Plata or the river that separates Uruguay from Argentina. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 and was of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. A century later it was ultimately lost and taken by the Spanish crown.

On a clear day one can stand on the shore of the river in Colonia and see Buenos Aires 35 miles across! The river is the lifeblood of many of the coastal and inland communities, including Colonia.

View through the trees, Rio de la Plata

Upon our arrival we took a much needed “siesta”, knowing full well our days there would be packed with activities! The following day our friend Edi drove us around so we could explore Colonia.

The national language is Spanish and nothing happens quickly there. So we leisurely explored neighborhoods and learned that they are quite different than those in the U.S.  Very modest homes may reside directly next to very expensive homes. Businesses may be situated very close by and some roads may be paved and others not. Some folks drive cars, others ride motorbikes and others use horse-drawn carts!

Horse drawn cart seen on the streets

We were shown the “Plaza de toro Real de San Carlos” or the bull ring. Built to host bull fights like those in Spain, it is now a favorite stop for tourists.  The bull ring was built in 1910 and hosted only 8 bull fights before the Uruguay government shut it down in 1912. It is now a run down derelict building with no purpose but continues to hint at its moorish-style grandeur of days past.

Plaza de toro Real de San Carlos

Later that evening we ventured into the “old city” of Colonia, also known as its historic quarter or the “barrio historico.” We walked down cobblestone roads admiring the 17th century Portuguese-style architecture. The winding streets and colorful houses are laid out in a pattern not reminiscent of Spanish colonial cities. In 1995 this area was named a UNESCO world heritage site…an impressive designation and one the locals are proud of.

"Old City" Colonia

As we walked down a side street we noticed a group gathered in the street. As we approached we realized it was a drum circle!  The music was enchanting and locals were dancing in the street. It was clear to see all were having a truly fun time just as we were!

Drum circle pops up

The next morning we packed a small overnight bag and headed out to explore other areas of the country, including the Capitol city of Montevideo. We stopped in little towns such as Santa Ana, La Paz and Rosario along the way. Each has its own unique feel to it and all have a statue of General Artigas in its town square. General Artigas is Uruguay’s national hero much like General Washington is to the U.S.

General Jose Artigas

Several hours later we arrived in the Capitol city of Montevideo. It is similar to a large city in the U.S. with tall buildings, congested streets and urban lifestyles. We visited a local three-story shopping mall, built in 1985 and the first one in Uruguay.  (Prior to this there were only small storefronts.)  It was clearly similar to those in the U.S. with some stores being the same as those in the states. The only difference was that all the signage was in Spanish. The national currency is the Peso and the exchange rate was fairly simple to calculate. Some things were lower priced there and others more expensive. For example clothing is very affordable, but electronics not so much.  It was nearing 7PM and we were hungry for dinner. Unfortunately for us “Gringos” the dinner hour started at 8PM in Uruguay so none of the local restaurants were serving dinner…so we ate in the food court of the mall.  No problemo!  Fed and happy we wandered back to our little hotel (the Don Hotel) near the Port of Montevideo and checked in for a good nights sleep!

Rooftops of Montevideo from our hotel

We awoke rested and ready to meet our guide and driver who were hired to give us a tour of the city and outlying areas of Uruguay. Our guide, Christina, came recommended by a local translator friend of our transplanted friends. Christina was a pleasure to meet and was the ultimate professional. She introduced us to our driver, Sergio, who didn’t speak much English so she translated for us and him!

She told us that “Montevideo” means the 6th hill from the East (Punta del Este) to the West (Colonia).  She showed us the old munitions bunker near the Port and informed us that the Spaniards arrived in the late 1600′s looking for gold and silver but only found land and livestock. Therefore they nicknamed Montevideo “the land with no profit.” In 1825 Uruguay declared its independence from Brazil and in 1830 its first constitution was celebrated where “no slave will be born.” In 1982 Uruguay became a democratic country from its former militaristic dictatorship.

Historic munitions bunker

We toured several parks and local gathering spots.  In the parks there were large life-size bronze statues representing significant historic events. One was dedicated to the last four remaining natives of the Charruas tribe. In the mid 1800′s farmers started fencing their lands and severing the natives from their hunting grounds. The farmers complained to the government and falsely accused the Charruas of stealing their livestock. The government gathered them, took them to an obscure place and shot them. Only 4 survived and so there is no native population. Another of the monuments was that of a carriage being pulled by horses made by Jose Bellini. The carriage was carrying people and mail and the wheels are being pulled out of the mud by the strength of the horses depicting the strength of the people.

Large Jose Bellini bronze

We visited several art museums.  We also visited the Parliament building where the Senate and the Representatives (called Deputies) meet in sessions.  There are 30 Senators and 99 Deputies.  The building was truly spectacular and built by the Masonic order.   Made of all marble and granite, it represented all 58 kinds from local quarries. The lamps and stained glass were imported from Milan, Italy.  The mosaics on each end of the ceiling represented the Sciences and the Arts. In the middle of the chamber there were two armed soldiers standing guard over the country’s original declaration of independence.  Not far from the building is a tall Obelisk constructed in 1930 to honor the writers of the country’s declaration of independence. The monument represents strength, liberty and law.  Our guide obtained special permission for us to enter the Parliament building. After a full day of exploring we were dropped off at our hotel and told to be ready early the next morning for more adventure!

Interior of the beautiful Parliament building

Morning came quickly and we were off again.  As we headed out of the city we stopped by a local grocery store to get an idea of where the locals shop for food. Art was taking photos inside the store when a security person approached him and admonished him for taking photos. Oops!  We blamed it on being Gringos and that seemed to suffice.

Of all things to get in trouble for!

After a few hours of driving through the countryside we arrived in a little inland town called Minas. It was quaint and welcoming. We entered a small local bakery where there were many delectable pastries tempting us! As we were looking around our guide told us to follow her down a flight of stairs. We descended into what appeared to be an old wine cellar that had been decorated to resemble a scene out of the Bible, the last supper!  The table had place settings for each of the 12 Disciples.  There were antiques all around the room and one could see this was truly a place of importance to its owners.

Deep in the wine cellar

We purchased some pastries and were back on the road toward a surprise location. As we drove we noticed beautiful rolling valleys of fields planted with olive trees, grapes for wine production, maize for livestock, wheat, etc.  This countryside was truly picturesque!  Our driver was happy to taste the pastries we had purchased along the way.

Rolling countryside outside of Minas

Within an hour we arrived at a small riverside location not far from Punta del Este. We arrived at Casa Pueblo which is a popular resort museum of Uruguayan artist Paez Vilaro. The resort resembles a kind of mediterranian surrealistic architecture that is a resort hotel on the side of a cliff that one can stay at. The views are stunning and the building is even more fascinating. The artist, we were told, is the father of one of the survivors of the infamous plane crash in the Andes where the survivors had to resort to cannibalism to survive. This place was built by Vilaro in honor of his son. Vilaro’s art resembles the style combination of Dali and Picasso, who were his friends. After our tour of the resort and museum we were off again!

Artist Paez Vilaro's gallery and hotel

We drove past more stunning valleys and vistas, the likes of which could appear in any artist’s renderings. Speaking of which, our guide arranged for a very special lunch engagement for us and soon we arrived at a very remote location in the countryside. It was the prior residence of a local artist that was acquired by a wealthy businessman along with the two adjoining homesteads. It is now a restaurant, tea house and event center that serves gourmet meals with a spectacular view of the countryside. It was a special treat because our guide was able to convince the owner to serve us lunch on a day they were not open. The food was amazing and the special treatment made us feel like dignitaries!

View from our delicious lunch table

After two great days of exploring we headed back to Colonia for some rest and relaxation. One should not visit Uruguay without experiencing an “Asado” or barbecue. We were invited to an authentic Asado hosted by friends who own Posado de Campo Gondwana, a local bed and breakfast. The owners, Andy and Isabella, occasionally treat their guests to this special meal.

Posado de Campo Gondwana

Usually the asado begins by igniting the logs on an outdoor grill called a Parrilla. The logs are often from native trees, avoiding pines and eucalyptus as they have strong-smelling resins. In more sophisticated asados the logs are of a specific tree or made on the coals of recently burned wood, which is also commonplace when having an asado in a campfire. In Uruguay charcoal is not used, but instead direct embers or hot coals which is how Andy prepared ours.

Staples of an asado

Isabella served “provoleta” or a barbecued cheese made of local provolone with  oil and spices that is placed in bakeware directly on the grill while the meats are cooking. Then Andy served the first meat off the grill, chorizo on fresh baked bread. It was amazing!  The next meat served was “sweet boudin” or sweet blood sausage. We weren’t quite sure about this one but we tried it and were surprised by the flavor. It tasted like a meaty pumpkin pie due to the spices used. Then Andy finished the meat courses with filet and an undercut of beef. Both were perfectly flavored and delicious!  We were so full we couldn’t fit dessert so we had some homemade liqueurs made by the owners. We had shots of Lemoncello, Grappa and Nocino (made of walnuts.) It was the perfect way to end a perfect meal with new friends and old friends!  Gondwana is truly a special place that we would highly recommend as a vacation destination.

Our dinner starting to cook on the parrilla

The next day we packed and headed to the airport for our flights back to the U.S.  We were sad to leave this wonderful country and could truly understand why our friends chose Uruguay to move to!

Sunset on the Rio de la Plata

Stompin’ the Swamp…

Longing for those days out West when the Colorado Rockies or the Utah Canyons provided the backdrop for a day’s adventure, we decided it was time to once again connect with nature in a new and adventurous way, only this time in the Florida swamps!

Big Cypress Swamp

During our days at Selby Gardens, we had the distinct pleasure and honor of working with and meeting Clyde Butcher when the Gardens hosted an exhibit of his Florida landscape photography. Clyde is a world renown black and white nature photographer of 40 years and his extraordinary photographs reflect his personal relationship with the environment. Among his many accolades and awards, the Sierra Club has given him the Ansel Adams Conservation Award, which is given to a photographer who shows excellence in photography and has contributed to the public awareness of the environment.

Clyde and his wife Niki annually host “Muck About” swamp walks to the public behind their house in Big Cypress Swamp in South Florida over Labor Day Weekend to introduce them to the swamp up close and personal. We decided to take the plunge (no pun intended) and find out why this landscape captured Clyde’s interest and heart so many years ago.

We were scheduled for a 2:00PM walk and knowing that Clyde’s studio/home resides in proximity of the Florida Everglades (3 ½ hours from our house) we got up early, ate breakfast and headed out to make sure we were there in time for our 1:30PM check in. We were told to gear up with long pants, a hat, old sneakers and lots of bug spray. We also were told to bring a complete change of clothes since we would no doubt NOT want to drive 3 ½ hours back in swamp-laden attire! This was a routine we were accustomed to from our trip to the Amazon.

We arrived at the studio just in time for check-in where we were immediately asked to sign the obligatory waiver and disclaimer promising not to sue if we contracted some deadly virus or disease or got attacked by an alligator, etc. This was a little unnerving, but again, this was familiar from some of our other adventures as well. Besides, what could go wrong when wading in waist deep murky swamp water in the Florida Everglades?

Our Hiking Trail...

Our group consisted of 11 people and our guide, Brian Call. Brian is also an amazing photographer and has worked with Clyde for many years. He was very knowledgeable and had a very calming demeanor. Our guide outfitted us with walking sticks and bottled water and off we went.

Our Guide, Nature Photographer & Cypress Swamp Aficionado, Brian Call.

Brian first gave us a small lesson about the history of the issues within the Florida Everglades. He told us that in the early 1900’s the Army Corps of Engineers was tasked to forever change the Everglades by diverting the natural flow of water. The Corps was responsible for constructing more than 1,400 miles (2,300 km) of canals to divert water away from the Everglades after 1947. The Everglades were in imminent danger of disappearing forever due to gross mismanagement in the name of progress, and real estate and agricultural development. Through the efforts of those like Marjory Stoneman Douglas (The Everglades: River of Grass) and others, the Everglades’ importance as an environmental ecosystem was clearly demonstrated. It is the largest track of wilderness east of the Rocky Mountains and was established as a National Park in 1947, including Big Cypress swamp. There is still an on-going restoration project to mitigate some of the damage that was done by restoring water flows that once were in place.

Our group was led off the gravel path and literally into the swamp. The water was cool and the sky was overcast. This was a welcome relief to the heat and humidity that is common in September in Florida. We were instructed to use our walking sticks to feel our way ahead of us for the myriad of obstructions that lay just below the surface of the water. Within seconds we were thigh-deep in murky black swamp water, cool and musty smelling. We couldn’t help but notice how calm and serene this environment was, even though our hearts were pounding at the thought of what we couldn’t see in the water.

Knee Deep in the Swamp

We pushed those thoughts out of our minds in order to focus on the simple task of walking – not an easy thing to do in a swamp! We could feel branches and rocks underfoot. We knew this was a Cypress swamp and that Cypress trees grow by sending “knees” up from the ground like saplings in a forest. Those “knees” were all around and were easily hidden in the water – making the task of walking that much more treacherous. We quickly realized that our sense of sight would not be of much help to us since we had to rely on our sense of touch and what we were feeling with our walking stick, very similar to those who have lost their sight but still manage to be ambulatory.

Little Grouping of Cypress Knees

Walking was challenging to say the least. We would feel the branches but not know exactly how long they were or if they were jutting up enough to have to climb over. There were floating logs at the surface of the water that needed to be traversed and the dense vegetation of the forest made this seem like nature’s version of a military-style obstacle course.

After 10 minutes our guide stopped and let us gather our bearings while he educated us about what he called “periphyton” or the prolific mat of fungi, algae, microbes and associated plants and animals that attach to the submerged surfaces we were walking on. Periphyton is critically important to the swamp ecosystem because it is photosynthetic and provides food for many swamp inhabitants. It also provides a habitat for organisms allowing them to lay eggs, etc. It grows in nutrient-poor water, provided it has clean water to grow in and is an important indicator of water quality in the swamp.

Brian Explains the Biology of Periphyton

Our guide led us on. We quickly realized that, as in nature, we could accomplish the task of walking safely in the water as a group working together rather than as individuals working alone. We each started reporting branch obstacles, dips in the terrain and other hazards to those behind us so as to keep the entire group moving forward safely. Ants and other creatures have survived and flourished using this same skill.

Our guide pointed out a very crooked tree and asked us if we thought it grew that way? He assured us that it didn’t and reported that the indigenous Indian tribes that used to live in the area many, many years ago used to bend saplings and wrap periphyton around the break to keep the sapling alive. This was a sign to other in the tribe of something important in the area that was intended to be emphasized like a food or water source.

Bend Made at a Young Age in the Dwarf Cypress Tree by Local Indians

Our guide stopped and pointed out what looked like a clutch of white little pearls attached to a branch just above the water line. We gathered around as he explained what we were looking at. These were Apple snail (Pomacea paludos) eggs. The Apple Snail is the principle food for Snail Kites (native to Florida, endangered and considered the rarest bird of prey in the nation). The snail, also native to Florida, is the only large Florida snail that comes to the surface of the water. A remarkable example of evolutionary adaptation, the Kite extracts the snail from the shell using its greatly curved bill. The Kite’s main threat is loss of wetland habitat because if there is no water in the swamp, the snail cannot thrive and neither can the Kite. It became very evident how critical this ecosystem is to the many creatures that depend on it and how delicate the balance of life is in the swamp!

Eggs of the Florida Apple Snail

Suddenly, we felt rain drops start to fall. We heard the clap of thunder and had no idea if lightening strikes were amidst. We couldn’t see the sky very well through the dense forest canopy. We’ve learned as Florida residents that water conducts electricity and the last place you want to be in a lightning storm is in water! So there we all were, in the swamp in a typical Florida summer rain storm. What to do?

We just kept moving. Again, the task of walking was arduous as we would step over the next thick web of branches underfoot only to land in a trench that brought the water waist high. One of the ladies behind us lost her footing and ended up falling in completely. She quickly regained her footing and laughed it off. Such are the perils of mucking about! We had forgotten about the lightning and were enjoying the walk when our guide called back to his assistant bringing up the rear of the group that the next trail marker seemed to be missing. Lost you say?

The guide-assistant came to the front of the line where we were all stopped and waiting for further direction. For a moment we wondered if this was just a ruse to add to the drama, but we could see it was not. We thought were momentarily lost in the swamp. However our guide spotted the marker obscured by the dense vegetation and we began to move on.

Cypress Trees Covered in Epiphytes

We stopped along the walk to view various orchid and tillandsia specimens that clung to their host trees as epiphytes will do. Art pointed to a specific plant that seemed to be clinging to a tree but did not look like a typical epiphyte. Our guide noted that the plant was a strangler fig that attaches to a host tree that eventually grows to out-compete its host for light which ultimately kills the host tree. The strangler fig is another primary example of evolutionary adaptation.

Strangler Fig Clings on to Host Cypress Tree

As we moved further through the swamp our guide stopped us again and this time was rather excited about his find! He was amazed to have come across what he called a “fishing” spider nestled in a crook of a tree. This spider is named such because it feeds on fish that it catches! The spider was easily 4”-5” long and seemed to look like the swamp equivalent of a tarantula. We each stopped to gaze at the spider as we walked by it. This is why we were so careful to use our walking sticks as support rather than the trees. Some of us gazed more quickly than others!

A Regular Swamp Creature, the Fishing Spider

Just as we were getting accustomed to the rhythm of walking in the water and marveling at the amazing symbiotic relationships of nature’s flora and fauna, we found ourselves at the end of the trail and exiting the swamp back to the gravel path we set out on. Today’s adventure can best be summed up by the words of Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings who once said, “I do not understand how anyone can live without some small place of enchantment to turn to.” Big Cypress Swamp certainly is a place of enchantment!

If you would like to see Brian’s beautiful photography, visit his website at BrianCallPhotography.com.

Expedition Amazon – Part 2

Although one would think sleeping in a thatched hut with no electricity or air conditioning might be very uncomfortable – it was amazingly peaceful and enjoyable. We were careful to tuck in our bed netting all around us to ensure the “forest soldiers” were at bay. We listened to a soft rain fall during the middle of the night which seemed as if the forest were singing us to sleep! We woke to another great meal prepared by the lodge staff and after breakfast we were greeted by local villagers who demonstrated their craft-making to us.

Yagua Man Demonstrates Carving an Axe Handle

Edgardo was a young fit “twenty-something” Amazonian who demonstrated the use of a blow gun. Locals use the guns to hunt monkey and other bush meat in the forest for sustenance. They rub the tips of the dart on the back of a poison dart frog or they use plant based toxins on the dart. He then encouraged several members of our group to “practice” the art of hunting with the gun by blowing the darts into a target. The group was amazingly accurate – a true testament to the incredible design of the weapon!

Edgardo Watches as Ty Demonstrates His Blowgun Abilities

There were women who were weaving palm fibers to make bags which could be used to collect manioc (yucca) roots and other staple vegetation from the forest. Others were making beautiful clay pots for use in everyday cooking or for making Chicha. Chicha is a local fermented beverage (made only by women) who chew cassava or manioc root and spit into a vessel. The spit or “drink” is allowed to ferment into a kind of beer that is consumed by the locals. Men are only allowed to let the Chicha touch their lips – no other part of the body. The drink is considered a very sacred food of the Amazonians.

Yagua Woman Moulding Clay Bowl Made From Amazon River Bank Mud

After our craft-making lessons with the locals we packed an overnight bag, donned our jungle attire and boarded a boat to our next destination – the ExplorNapo lodge on the Napo River just off of the Amazon River. During our boat ride our guide Julio quickly spotted a three-toed sloth high in a tree! We stopped to watch this incredibly cute creature cling to the tree as if not wanting to be spotted. The students could not seem to get enough of this little forest inhabitant – as he appeared to move in slow motion. We then made our way up the river to the lodge.

Sloth in Tree Along River - Photo Courtesy of Amy Putnum

Once at the lodge, we were assigned to our rooms, this time with no private bathrooms. Much more primitive, the showers and toilets were communal – and still no electricity. Our bunks did have the familiar bug netting – so we “gringos” could sleep sound. At the lodge we were greeted by some very strange “pets.” They were Charli the Capybara (the largest of the rodent family and semi-aquatic weighing about 100 lbs), Raul the Grey-winged Trumpeter bird (guineafowl-like) and Patcha the dog. A very strange group of pets made for great fun for the students!

Kaki (left) and Tyler (right) giving Charli some love. Photo Courtesty of Amy Putnam

Raul Starts the Attack on Pacha. Photo Courtesy of Caitlin Verdu

After lunch we boarded a motor boat and headed up the Napo. Julio again pointed out various birds and flora for us to see, including Oropendula and their unique looking nests that seemed to drip from the tree branches high above. There were villages dotting the banks of the river and children from those villages would wave at us as we motored by. Farms of banana trees, manioc and various fruit trees were being grown along the river. As we motored into a tributary we saw small children swimming in the river at the bank – knowing full well there were Piranha in the river as well! They did not seem to mind or bother them one bit.

Oropendula Nests Suspended From the Trees

We motored a little while longer and stopped in a shaded spot. We each were given a simple cane pole with a line and hook. We used chicken as bait and dropped our lines in the water. We could feel the Piranha nibble at our bait – then Kaki got a bite and she lifted her catch into the boat! The Piranha was small but well able to defend itself with its razor sharp jaws! The catch went into a bucket and we continued fishing. In all we caught 4 Piranha (good thing we weren’t depending on our catch for dinner like the locals do!) We headed back and were greeted by the famous Amazon pink river dolphin. They appeared to be sun-burned and were very elusive!

Pink River Dolphin

Once back at the lodge we relaxed in the hammocks and enjoyed the sounds of the jungle. The dog tried to befriend us but strangely the Trumpeter bird attacked the dog as if defending its territory! The dog quickly retreated off to another part of the lodge and the Capybara was not bothered at all by the commotion! The dinner bell was rung and we gathered together to enjoy the tasty local cuisine prepared for us and – yes – our prize catch of the day, Piranha! Ty, one of the students, was kind enough to strip the flesh from the bony little fish for all of us to try. It was rather mild and surprisingly good fish!

Rita and Art settling in for some hammock time. Photo courtesy of H. Bruce Rinker.

The group gathered for a round-table discussion on the importance of the environment and then prepared for a night-float with Julio. The storm clouds were gathering and the lightning was ominous. The group decided not to finish the float due to the rain and lightning and retreated for the evening. Using the latrine-style toilets in the pitch dark was quite an adventure! We were all well aware that various creepy crawlies like tarantulas made their homes in the forest and could be anywhere anytime – even in the latrine. The jungle soldiers took advantage of poor unsuspecting gringos to and from. Good thing we were all taking our malaria medication! Again, the forest sang us all to sleep while we were safely tucked into our net-tented bunks.

Santiago leading one of our roundtable discussions. Photo courtesy of H. Bruce Rinker.

The next morning the group rose at 6:00am and went on an early morning bird watch expedition down the Napo. The boat motored into a blackwater channel with the goal of finding the Hoatzin – a strange looking chicken-sized bird that has a very “unique” odor. It emits a manure-like smell due to its ability to digest a massive amount of fiber from its diet not typical of plant-eating birds. It’s a very primitive bird that actually has functional claws at its mid-wing joint that is suspected to be remnant of the dinosaur. As the group approached an area known to be frequented by the birds and were amazed to find an estimated 100+ of these unusual creatures! This is more than Julio had ever seen in one place and he was clearly excited at this find. The forest spirits were looking favorably upon the group for sure! There was complete silence except for the birds. Tyler stood up in the boat and belted out a fantastic rendition of “Adelaide’s Lament!” Her voice carried down the river and we wondered what the natives thought of the Broadway tune.

The primative Hoatzin bird.

While watching the birds, the boat floated further down the channel and the group spotted another male water-fowl feeding in the grasses with his 2 chicks. The group saw 2 dug-out canoes that had quietly slipped in the channel behind them, each contained a Yagua woman and a child. The Yagua observed the “gringos” earlier and seized the opportunity to peddle their crafts and wares! The group could not resist the cute children and bought various necklaces and bracelets made of seeds, nuts and fish bones – shopping Amazon-style!

The stealthy marketers slip in behind us.

Back at the lodge, the group met for breakfast and then proceeded to head out for a medicinal plant hike with Julio. He pointed out many fascinating plants, trees, shrubs and vines including the infamous Ayahuasca (natem). This is a Quechua word for one of the sacred teacher plants, along with datura (aka Angel’s Trumpet) and tobacco that is prepared and taken in order to reach a higher level of consciousness resulting in journeying, visions, transformation, and a deep sense of connection and oneness with the surrounding world. The purpose of combining these plants is to see beyond the everyday world into the greater reality and is primarily used by local Shaman (revered medicine men) during their healing ceremonies. The group was being prepared by Julio for their meeting with the local Shaman later in the day – a truly unique experience not afforded to many!

The infamous Ayahuasca vine.

Expedition Amazon…

We’ve got chiggers swimming in our blood
And bot flies in our neck
Disease abound from Amazon mud
And our hair is a wreck

Our bathroom is a scary place
With over 50 rules
Describing how exactly
One should use the loo’s

Those bumps aside this place is great
As if this trip was planned by fate
When we’ve all returned (hopefully intact)
We’re bringing the jungle back!

~ Caitlin Verdu, Amazon Expedition Member

Our Amazon adventure started with a 35-hour travel excursion (from home to our Amazon Lodge destination). Team members flew in from all parts of the country. The Aughey’s from Florida, John Burr (adult) from Florida, Sandy Patterson (adult) from Virginia, Dr. Bruce Rinker (adult and trip leader) from Virginia and 6 high school students from Virginia – Ty, Nick, Tyler, Kaki, Amy and Caitlin. The four adults (Team Harpe) and six students (Viper Team) converged upon Miami International for their 6 1/2-hour 12:20A flight to Lima. Kaki’s luggage did not make the flight but she handled the situation with grace and calm!

Kaki shops for a new wardrobe in Iquitos - Photo courtesy of Kaki Comer

It was 10:30P and Viper Team was hungry, not having eaten since lunch. They set out near the gate to find a café but unfortunately, all food kiosks were closed except for the duty free shop where imported chocolates were quickly snapped up and gobbled down! We flew into the night, tired yet restless with excitement. Upon arrival at Lima we met one of our guides, Santiago from Mexico who would accompany us for the rest of the trip. He presented us with our first lesson, a piece of unknown fruit that we were challenged to identify. None of us knew what this strange looking fruit was so he explained that it was a “Chitimoyo” common to Peru. It was a pale, fleshy avocado -type fruit that tasted sweet and refreshing!

The Students - Team Viper. Photo courtesy of Tyler Bailey

The airport was busy and it was clear that we were no longer in the U.S. We were now in a foreign land and for many on the trip it was the first time. We tried to be mindful of the social responsibility we had as U.S. citizens to assimilate the appropriate customs and traditions of the new land we were experiencing! The faces we saw were dark, yet gentle and friendly and the language was no longer English but Spanish.

We quickly boarded our flight to Iquitos, where upon landing we were greeted by our Amazonian expert guide, Julio. Julio lives in Iquitos with his wife and works for the Lodge as a Guide. He has done this for 25 years. Prior to that he lived in an Achuar village in the Amazon with his parents and siblings. Interestingly, the Achuar are a peaceful tribe that border the northern edge of Peru (near Ecuador) and have a history of being the victims of the Shuar tribe who practice “tsantsa” or head-hunting similar to the Jivaro’s. More stories of Julio’s past would unfold as the trip continued. For now, the porters were quickly gathering our duffels and loading them into an open air bus. While the language they spoke sounded like Spanish, we were told some of them were speaking Quechua, the native language of Peru.

Julio directed the driver to take us through the “department” of Iquitos to the Explorama boat launch where he would ensure our safe passage up the river to our Lodge. He educated us along the way explaining that the city was celebrating a “holy day” which was a holiday. There were many people but very few cars. Iquitos is a large city of Peru with no main roads or highways connecting it to the rest of the country. All goods and supplies that are not local have to be flown or shipped in. The town’s people travel primarily by motorbike or by motortaxi. All the drivers are men except for one woman who drives a car. This was our first hint at the “machismo” society that is predominant in Peru!

Traffic in Iquitos

After a quick stop in Iquitos where Kaki purchased some much needed clothing since her luggage did not make the flight, we arrived at the boat launch where we boarded our “waterbus” for our 2 hour trip up the mighty Amazon! The water was coffee-colored and the river was great and wide. We observed villages along the banks of the river as we motored to our destination. Some villages were large and some only consisted of a few huts. Some were abandoned long ago and were slowly being ravaged and consumed by the forest. The river was 1/3-mile wide and seemed to be the main “highway” through the Amazon basin.

Typical Village Along the Amazon

We made our way to a small tributary where we turned in and began to motor much more slowly since the banks were now closer to us. It was narrow and very shallow. Julio pointed to the water marks on the trees near the banks that were made from the May rains. The lines were at least 20 feet higher than the current water level! We motored past small Yagua villages as the vegetation became denser on either side of us. The trees were full of life! Various birds and butterflies flitted about. Bromeliads and other epiphytes dripped from the branches providing micro-ecosystems to other forest inhabitants. And then, we encountered the most hated creature in all of the Amazon….the mosquito! They were everywhere and we were prepared with our jungle attire and our various repellants. We were now at war with these “jungle soldiers” and we would battle them for the next 8 days!

High Water Mark

We arrived at our Lodge where we were assigned to our “rooms.” These were roughly 10×15 foot open-air rooms with thatched roofs, no electricity and two modest bunk beds enshrouded with mosquito netting. Fortunately, each of our rooms had flush toilets and a shower. Unfortunately, there was no hot water. Although, in this humid and steamy environment, cold showers were often refreshing once acclimated! Lighting at night was by oil lamps and although the facilities seemed very primitive…they were quite comfortable and enjoyable. There was a great room close to our rooms that contained 14 hammocks where one could relax and listen to the sounds of the forest or view the bats that made their homes in the thatch above one’s head!

Interior of Lodge Bedroom

After we settled into our rooms we gathered with Julio for a 1-mile hike through the jungle. Julio pointed out monkeys high in the forest canopy who were traversing the branches like a busy highway! He identified so many birds, plants and insects, telling us wondrous facts about each one. He was truly a walking encyclopedia of forest information! The trees were as tall as sky-scrapers and some of their root systems engulfed us. The moist, dense foliage provided the perfect haven for the jungle soldiers or mosquitoes that were furiously trying to feast on the newcomers! Each living thing we encountered depended on another or provided some benefit or mutualism that contributed to the whole of this new world we were experiencing!

Julio imparting his vast botanical knowledge...

After our hike we cleaned up and relaxed in the hammocks as we awaited the glorious sound of the jungle drums calling us to dinner. There joined together in the dining hall where we feasted on local Peruvian fare which included salad, rice, beans, fresh vegetables, beef, rolls, fruits and jello. The food was so flavorful and lacked any preservatives or chemicals that we are so accustomed to in the U.S. We discussed our hike over dinner and just enjoyed each other’s company – getting to know each other.

Nick, our expedition drummer, practices calling for dinner.
Photo courtesy of Kaki Comer

After dinner we gathered at the dock where Julio took us on a “night float.” We boarded a small motor boat with our flashlights in hand. The captain of the boat proceeded into the tributary in pitch darkness other than our flashlights. We looked up at the night sky and it was studded with millions and millions of stars – and we quickly spotted the Southern Cross, a constellation that can only be seen south of the equator! The stars were so evident and so clear due to the fact that there is very little light pollution to filter their presence. Julio pointed out nocturnal life all around us. We spotted a great Kingfisher (bird) sitting on a branch. We also spotted a baby Amazon Tree Boa coiled in a tree which Julio proceeded to catch and pass around for all of us to hold before we put it back in the tree! It was an absolutely amazing adventure ride. We returned to the dock and to our rooms where we all crashed after our first day of experiencing the Amazon. This was just the first day!

Refuge or Not…

It was a bright sunny Sunday and the Aughey’s once again found themselves looking for another adventure to embark on. It was just after lunch so they knew they couldn’t wander too far since daylight would soon be retiring. Art suggested they check out a local national wildlife refuge on the outskirts of town called Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge.

Rita was interested in this place because she had read a book that contained some interesting info regarding the site’s history. Consisting of over 17,000 acres, the site’s plains and prairies were once inhabited by plains Indians and settlers. In 1942 the site was transformed into a chemicals weapons manufacturing facility by the US Army. They manufactured mustard and nerve gas, napalm and incendiary bombs for the war. At the war’s end, part of the facility was leased to Shell Chemical Company for the manufacture of pesticides and herbicides.

This manufacturing activity transformed a portion of the site into what was once called “the most contaminated square mile on Earth.” Ducks would die within moments after landing on Arsenal Lake and the bottoms of aluminum boats sent to fetch their carcasses rotted within a month! In 1982 military and civilian production ceased and in 1986 a communal roost of bald eagles attracted by the site’s prairie dog population was discovered within its boundaries. Public interest triggered an intense and successful grassroots effort to have the Arsenal declared a National Wildlife Refuge. In 1987 an environmental cleanup effort was undertaken by the US Army and the Shell Oil Company and is continuing to this day. All the lakes and streams were drained and sealed in an effort to contain the toxic waste and the plan is to continue to treat and monitor toxic groundwater plumes for another century until they’re considered safely diluted.

Art and Rita arrived at the site’s visitor center and were given maps of the trails and literature about the wildlife located on the site. They decided to hike a small portion of trails that surrounded Lake Mary, a smaller lake on the site. As they headed off on the trail they could see numerous animal tracks on the trail, no doubt from wildlife looking for food or water earlier in the day. They saw deer, elk, bird and other assorted tracks. The site is home to over 330 species of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and fish.

Mule deer grazing

They noticed a bird rookery in the middle of Lake Mary that contained some geese and ducks and some strange items they could not make out. Art looked through the binoculars and saw what appeared to be bones of a large mammal consisting of the spine, the skull, and other parts. It was strange because this animal had to swim to the rookery to get to that location and there would be no logical reason for it to do so. Perhaps a larger mammal dragged it there to feed on it? Perhaps it was sick and decided to go to this remote location to die? We will never know.

They continued on the path and came to a portion of the path that was washed out by a slow moving stream. Their choice was to turn back or cross the stream. Knowing most would opt to turn back they decided to cross the stream to access the continuing path where few people would traverse. Farther down the path and out of site of the lake they happened upon a large black-tailed prairie dog town. They quietly observed many of the prairie dogs perched upon their large burrows nervously watching the intruders. The burrows looked like huge ant piles with large holes in the top. The burrows were roughly 3-4 feet in diameter.

Prairie Dog Tunnel

Rita slowly found a place to sit on the outskirts of the town to view the activity with the binoculars while Art strategically sat in the middle of the town hoping to get great photos of them. Most of the prairie dogs retreated into their burrows for safety while several others remained in the holes but still able to watch their intruders.

Art sitting in the middle of the town

One of larger prairie dogs started yipping and barking, no doubt a warning call to the other town inhabitants of the danger within their midst. Their sentry dutifully performed his role for at least an hour while Art and Rita just sat quietly observing their behavior. He did not stop barking the entire time. Many of the other inhabitants either stayed in their burrows or scurried to a burrow farther away. Those on the periphery of the town further away foraged on the grasses while still keeping a close eye on the intruders.

Prairie Dog keeping watch

Prairie dogs are tough, social animals belonging to the squirrel family. Their towns can cover up to 100 acres and consist of underground tunnel systems leading to various neighborhoods or wards. They play an important role in sustaining other prairie life and are therefore considered a “keystone” species. More than 170 vertebrate species depend on them for survival including the bald eagle. The loss of open prairie had dramatically reduced their populations. Since the arrival of European settlers their numbers have plummeted almost 98% prompting a call to the US Fish and Wildlife Service to add them to the endangered species list. This call is currently under consideration.

Prairie Dog Town

Art and Rita decided they had imposed on the prairie dogs long enough and quietly moved away from the town. As they left they heard the sentry’s barks and yips diminish in intensity and frequency until they stopped altogether.

Farther down the path they came upon a second lake where park visitors were leisurely fishing for bass under the park’s catch and release program. Hopefully the fisherman abide by the parks rule of catch and release given the history of the site! It’s doubtful that many know of the dark history of the park.

Rabbit sitting in the entrance to his burrow

Interestingly, the park has a sister site located about 16 miles northwest of downtown Denver called Rocky Flats National Wildlife Refuge and this site has a darker side than Arsenal. Until 1989, the US made plutonium detonators for atomic weapons at Rocky Flats with a shocking disregard for safety. For years, thousands of drums of cutting oil saturated with plutonium and uranium were stacked outside on bare ground. When someone finally noticed they were leaking, asphalt was poured over the evidence. Radioactive runoff frequently reached local streams fed by the Colorado River and radiation periodically escaped into the air. In 1989 an FBI raid finally closed Rocky Flats and several billions of dollars worth of intensive cleanup was undertaken. The asphalt and 3 feet of soil was scraped and sent to a waste processing facility in South Carolina. More than half of its 800 structures were razed, including the infamous “Infinity Room”, where contamination levels rose higher than instruments could measure. Several buildings were mostly underground and therefore buried. Above them, grasses and other herbivorous food sources were planted to assure a habitat for resident elk, mink, mountain lion and other mammals.

Anything at Rocky Flats too hard or too hot to move was covered with concrete and 20 feet of fill and has remained off-limits to humans. When one considers that uranium and plutonium residues have half-lives starting at 24,000 years it’s hard to imagine that this site will ever be safe for humans let alone wildlife. Additionally, underground streams are fed by the Colorado river which starts north of Denver and flows through 5 states eventually exiting into the Pacific in Southern California. The Colorado river is the main water source for those 5 states. Many of the wineries in California and western farmlands derive their water from the river. One has to wonder how much of the toxins from these so called “wildlife refuges” find their way into this water and ultimately into the food sources nourished by this water?

The day drew to a close and Art and Rita once again reached the Visitors Center. They saw many different species of birds and several mammals such as the prairie dogs on their hike through the refuge. It was a bittersweet visit as there was such natural beauty of the lakes, grasslands, etc. However, knowing the history of this site and others like it, they found it extremely sad and disquieting for the wildlife that are unaware of the impact human ignorance has extolled on this otherwise beautiful land.

On Safari… In Moab!

The Aughey’s went on safari in early April! Truth be told, not the kind of safari one imagines going on in Africa….but one that entailed adventure, excitement, exploring and danger! April 4th-11th was the 2009 Annual Easter Jeep Safari weekend in Moab, Utah where literally thousands of “Jeepers” converged in Moab to hit the trails. Art, Rita and Brandon decided to check it out with their own Jeep of course!

Moab is a small town flanked by several national parks such as Arches and Canyonlands and other public lands where the terrain is akin to what one would expect to find on planet Mars. In fact, many of the old western movies were filmed in Moab back in the day due to its arid yet beautiful scenery. The soil is red sand and various arid plants such as sage, yucca, grasses and cacti grow. The Colorado River runs through the parks and canyons that dot the area.

Heading out to the trail

Much of the public land in Utah is managed as National Parks or by the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) as public spaces. Utah promotes a “Tread Lightly” campaign to protect the fragile desert ecosystems on its public lands while still allowing access for all to enjoy. In many of the areas one can see dinosaur tracks left millions of years ago preserved in the rock ground cover. Additionally the area is inhabited by Cyanobacteria. Previously called blue-green algae, it is one of the oldest known life forms. It is thought that these organisms were among the first land colonizers of the earth’s early land masses, and played an integral role in the formation and stabilization of the earth’s early soils. Many human activities such as hiking, biking and off-roading are incompatible with the well-being of the cryptobiotic soils and the preservation of ancient fossil records such as dinosaur tracks. Hence, strict enforcement regarding staying on the designated trails is in place.

Cyanobacteria growing in the sand

4/9/09 Thursday PM – Art, Rita and Brandon checked into their hotel, the Gonzo Inn. It was recommended by the book, “1000 Places to See Before You Die.” Then they went to the Spanish Trail Arena to register for their trails on Friday and Saturday. They chose the “Fins and Things” trail for Friday and the “Flat Iron Mesa” trail for Saturday. There were hundreds of Jeeps congregated in the parking lot and many vendors selling their wares. Most of the Jeeps were modified, meaning after-factory parts were added such as huge off-road tires suitable for rock crawling, suspension lifts, winches, etc. Lots of those Jeeps had $50,000 or more in them after parts were added – no cheap hobby!

4/10/09 Friday AM – Art, Rita and Brandon packed their Jeep with the necessary essentials for a day on the trail (lunch, drinks, etc.) and met over 50 other Jeepers at the Gravel Pit Bowling Alley in Moab. Once all the drivers received their instructions and were versed on the rules of the trails all headed out in single file to the trail head of “Fins and Things.” This trail is rated 4 on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult. Not a bad first trail to start with, especially since Rita has little tolerance of doing damage to their $40,000 modified Jeep. Brandon was the designated driver for the day. Interestingly, to ride with Brandon off-road is much less scary than riding with him on highways or city streets!

Jeeps traversing the landscape

The “Fins and Things” trail is named as such because the “fins” are Navajo Sandstone slick-rock northeast of Moab, and the “things” are what remains as the fins erode. The fins started as wind-blown sand dunes roughly 200 million years ago, they got cemented into sandstone, and are now going full circle back to sand flowing in the wind.

The fins protrude from the hills

The trail opened with a sand hill featuring a sharp turn that thwarted the high-speed approach often needed in sand. There were a few sudden and steep climbs on and off the slick-rock that were difficult for vehicles not suited for the terrain. But all made it up and down the trail. Several less modified Jeeps had a rough time getting up the slopes, slipping back and having to try again. Some of the climbs were more than 45 degree angles….a little scary. Trail spotters were on the sidelines assisting the drivers with directions to ensure a successful climb. Tipping or rolling over was a certain possibility if the climb wasn’t done correctly. At times all that could be seen out of the windshield was blue sky, no trail!

Climbing the slick rock

Particularly interesting was a section of the trail called Ken’s Climb where Art and Brandon slowly took the Jeep up while Rita took photos of the climb. (Or was this Rita’s excuse for not braving the climb??) Fortunately the slick-rock was no match for the Jeep…it had NO problem making the climb or the steep descent!

The views from the trail were exceptionally scenic. The Navajo mounds and fins themselves were interesting, and the deep canyon system of Negro Bill added a special dimension to the trip. Farther to the east were red mesa rims at the base of the snow-covered La Sal Mountains with peak elevations of over 13,000 feet. The area is a high plain of slick-rock domes, bowls and fins. The landscape was largely dotted with sage bushes and yucca plants, lending a green sea of plant life against the red backdrop of the sandstone soil…it was an incredibly breathtaking view that can only be seen from the trails. Not many get to see these views.

The beautiful Moab views with the La Sal Mountains

The trail took approximately 6-7 hours to complete with intermittent stops to help cool the brakes on the Jeeps. Ladies, one might wonder about what one does when nature calls on the trail? No fear, there were a few breaks in the day for bathroom breaks at one of the few campsite portable facilities. Incidentally, there were several ladies who were in the drivers seat on the trail doing a fantastic job navigating the harrowing obstacles…just goes to show that some women drivers really are crazy as most men seem to think!

Restroom breaks

The last part of the “Fins and Things” trail was a series of steep climbs and 12”-16” high step-ledges that had to be traversed. These are typically not so easy, but when coupled with the fact that there was loose gravel and sand on the trail…it was difficult to stay calm and focused. However, Brandon did an exceptional job driving. However, this particular trail was only practice for the Saturday trail!

And down the slick rock

4/11/09 Saturday AM – Final day of the 2009 Easter Jeep Safari. The destination was “Flat Iron Mesa” trail which was rated 5 (one level of difficulty higher than “Fins and Things “). Since it was raining this particular day they imagined the difficulty rating must be higher just for that fact. “Flat Iron Mesa” is bounded on three sides by three different canyons affording spectacular views from the trail.

The trail started out with a series of step-ledges, rocks and small climbs which eventually led to larger climbs. The trail wound around steep canyon drops which offered spectacular views of red-rimmed mesas and large expanses of desert scenery. Before they knew it there was a difficult climb obstacle to hurdle. The incline was really steep and Brandon had to position the tires straight away giving just the right amount of gas to get the Jeep up the climb. Many of the vehicles were having difficulty and had to slide back and try again.

Art spots for Brandon

More trail, more climbs, they seemed to keep coming. Each one seemed more difficult than the last. There was a long climb to a flat-top butte with a loose mixture of coarse gravel and dirt that was made more difficult with a few large boulders.

Gravel Hill

Then there was a section of trail where the road seemed to end and they were faced with climbing a slick-rock hill up and then down. One of the lady Jeepers in front got a wheel stuck in a rut and had to be pulled out by a fellow Jeeper.

Hills abounding

After an unplanned stop they approached a long ledgy downhill climb overlooking West Coyote Canyon where Brandon had some difficulty getting the Jeep down but did manage it. The ledge was roughly an 8 foot sheer drop that had to be navigated very slowly and carefully. They later found out that a fellow Jeeper in front of them actually rolled their Jeep twice trying to make the drop, thus the cause for the unplanned stop! (Fortunately the Jeep had a roll-cage and it was not harmed and nor were the passengers.)

West Coyote Canyon crevice

The next obstacle on the trail was a hill named Easter Egg Hill. There was a bypass that Jeepers could use if they didn’t want to go down the hill. Only a few of the non-modified vehicle drivers opted for the bypass. Rita ran ahead to set up the camera at the bottom of the hill to take sequence shots of Brandon coming down. She was horrified when she saw the Jeepers before Brandon coming down the hill! The hill started with a huge boulder that had to be navigated over. One Jeeper teetered on the boulder and had to be pushed off. Others tilted sideways and did body damage when their vehicle slammed against the side of a right-facing boulder. Art and other drivers tried to minimize damage by assisting drivers away from that boulder. There were two other areas down the hill where huge boulders had to be driven over. Needless to say, it took patience and skill. Brandon traversed it like a pro with assistance from Art and another driver spotting and guiding him down the hill. No damage to their Jeep!!

The crest of Easter Egg Hill

Big boulder? Just go over!

The last obstacle was a narrow shelf called The Squeeze that required a tight turn. This wouldn’t have been so bad except that the shelf was a harrowingly narrow section on a cliff edge that barely allowed a full-size vehicle to pass. In addition, the shelf was laden with rocks that had to be traversed carefully. This is where event spotters were in place to assist Jeepers across the shelf and around the turn as one wrong move would send the vehicle and passengers careening down the canyon thousands of feet below. As Brandon and Art were driving across Rita took photos. The Jeep tires were only inches from the cliff edge and were teetered on rocks. Thank goodness this was the last obstacle of the course!

Canyon edge conquering "The Squeeze"

This was certainly enough adventure for one weekend! While this safari had all the makings of adventure, excitement and danger it was nice to return home safe, sound and unscathed minus a few scrapes to the undercarriage of the Jeep thanks to Brandon’s expert off-road driving skills! Moab is a magical place.

Modern Day Explorers…

Have you ever wondered what it takes to be a modern day explorer? Basically it entails having an interest in exploration particularly with an emphasis in the sciences. The preeminent society focused on exploration is The Explorers Club headquartered in New York City. Many of its members have been responsible for famous firsts such as being first to reach the North and South Poles, first to land on the moon, first to summit Mount Everest, etc.

The Explorers Club

Guess what? Art recently became a member of the Explorers Club! He was recently sponsored by a close friend who is a fellow of the club, Dr. Bruce Rinker. He joins many esteemed past and current members such as Sir Edmund Hillary, Theodore Roosevelt, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin, Robert Ballard, John Glenn …to name a few.

The infamous Explorers Club 105th Annual Dinner event was recently held at the Waldorf Astoria on March 21st and Art, Rita and Brandon decided to attend and experience firsthand the organization they are now a part of. They flew to New York City on Friday, March 20th and landed late in the afternoon in time to meet up with their friend Bruce.

Together they all attended the open house at the Explorer’s Club headquarters on East 70th Street with another member and friend Dr. Melissa Grigione that evening. They met at just after 8PM at the headquarters building to explore the many rooms of international treasures and artifacts that members have bestowed upon the Club over the years in their travels. When they arrived the open house was in process but winding down. Bruce told the host that they were heading upstairs to the infamous “Trophy Room” to browse the worldly artifacts. She acknowledged and they headed up the staircase on what would become a mini-adventure!

Upon climbing many flights of stairs the group arrived at the precipice of “Trophy Room.” Melissa commented that it was like being in a scene from the movie “Night at the Museum” where a newly hired security guard at the Natural History Museum discovered that a curse caused the animals and exhibits to come to life and wreak havoc. They all laughed and proceeded to find their way to their destination.

Alas they entered the Trophy Room. There they gazed upon what seemed like a mini-museum of natural history with taxidermy and artifacts from all over the world. One hardly knew where to begin looking! The group spread out and explored…as explorers do. There were so many objects in the collection. There were items ranging from ancient African masks to Tibetan prayer wheels and flags to large mammoth tusks. There were antiquarian exploration journals that were housed in locked mahogany cabinets. Oh to have the time to sit upon the antique furniture in the room and read through those journals! What experiences lie in those journals?

The Trophy Room

Rita noticed a large conical item mounted on a wood frame in the corner of the room sitting on the window sill and commented on what it might be. One of the group guessed it might be some part of a dried plant specimen. Another guessed something else. The mystery was solved when Bruce read the plaque on the wood frame and began to chuckle….it was a whale’s penis! Brandon had to have his picture taken with it….boys will be boys, past and present it seems! To say that this room contained unusual and interesting objects was an understatement. There just wasn’t enough time to really get a look at everything closely as it was getting late. One of the group suggested it might be time to leave so they headed out of the room.

Brandon pondering this strange artifact

They noticed the hallways were strangely completely dark. All of the lights had been turned off in the building. They looked down the middle of the staircase and could not see or hear anyone or anything. Bruce shouted down the staircase to harken a response. No response. Could it be? Were they accidentally forgotten and locked in? Was Melissa’s joke of “Night at the Museum” becoming a reality? The group used the light from their cell phone displays to help them down the flights of stairs that were pitch dark. Descending each floor it was painfully obvious they were alone in the building…the Explorer’s Club headquarters! What was thought of as a really cool place now seemed just darned creepy.

The group reached the ground floor and foyer of the building….where realization set in. They were indeed locked in! Did they dare try to open the front door and risk setting the security alarm? What then? Would the police arrive and question them or even worse, arrest them? They turned the front door handle to see if it was actually locked and it was. This set off the security alarm and it sounded for what seemed an eternity! A few minutes later the phone rang. Bruce answered it and it was the security alarm company. He told them of the circumstances and they informed him that someone was on their way to investigate the situation. So they waited. And waited. And waited. No one showed up!

Could this really be happening? First getting locked in the Explorer’s Club headquarters with priceless artifacts and then no one responding to the tripped alarm? Bruce started searching the front desk for staff phone numbers to try to reach someone. He left a few voice messages hoping someone would respond. Then Bruce called the security company again. They assured someone was on their way. It was almost an hour later when one of the staff members came to their rescue. It was the same staff member who acknowledged their intent to visit the Trophy Room earlier and she apologized profusely! All was forgiven and their “Night at the Museum” adventure came to an end.

The following day Art, Rita, Brandon and Bruce prepared to attend the Explorer’s Club Annual Dinner at the Waldorf. It was a black tie event. They planned to meet in the lobby at 6PM to ensure enough time to experience the “exotic” cocktail hour that preceded the dinner. They all met in the lobby and made their way to the event together. Once there they stood in line at the bar for drinks.

Brandon noticed an unusually dressed gentleman standing nearby. He asked him about his attire and the gentleman responded that the native American outfit he was wearing was a tribute to the tribe that recently made him an honorary member of their tribe. Brandon asked his name and if he had been on any recent expeditions. He acknowledged himself as Gary Olsen and informed Brandon that he had recently accompanied the Russians on a mission in space. He was the third person to privately pay to go into outer space. The price? A mere $20,000,000! (We Googled this info after the event.)

Brandon with our good friend and Fellow of the Explorers Club, Dr. H. Bruce Rinker

Then a waitperson approached them with a strange looking appetizer. When asked what it was he replied, “it’s tarantula tempura (on a stick).” Unfortunately there was only one left so it was deferred to Bruce who happily took it and proceeded to munch on it! Too bad there was only one (yeah right!!)

A tasty little beast, the tarantula

Bruce munching on the beastie

Thinking they were off the hook, another waitperson showed up with another strange item to eat. This time it was “a bull’s eyeball.” Art and Rita each took one….reluctantly. They each looked at it hesitantly and the waitperson waited for them to eat it to retrieve the spoon it was served on. OK, now what? Rita politely offered hers to the space traveler who gladly accepted it (one down, that was a close one!) Art wasn’t so lucky so he had to eat his….it squished in his mouth and tasted as bad as it looked! “A” for effort Art!

The room was very crowded and upon receiving their drinks they all parted ways to make their way to the table in the center of the room with more “goodies” to feast on! What would they find? On the menu of appetizers were things like: crispy scorpion dancing on endive leaves, zophobas morio (super worms) ala deviled egg, cricket croistini with herbed cream cheese, duck tongue on a cracker (who knew ducks had tongues?), wapiti (elk) balls in brown sauce, deep fried bulls’ testicles, musca domestica (house fly) larvae, stuffed braised and roasted lagomorphs (rabbit), Mediterranean herb-roasted lamb (complete with skull), roasted ostrich, and other fine delectable’s!

Lamb served in the unique way

Art asked Rita to hold his plate while he went to refill his drink. She thought it would be safe to eat the wild rice thingy in a pastry cup….how wrong she was! When Art returned he asked her where his house fly larvae cup went. Gulp! Her face went completely white when she realized she did not eat wild rice after all! Art, Brandon and Bruce proceeded to enjoy the “delectible’s” while Rita tried to recover from her house fly larvae miscue, oh my.

Plate of delectables

The lights began to flash on and off which signaled that everyone was to move into the main dining area for dinner and the event. Fortunately, dinner was “normal” compared to the cocktail hour. The menu consisted of herb-stuffed chicken breast, risotto and steamed veggies.

The keynote speaker for the dinner was Edward O. Wilson, a Harvard evolutionary biologist, researcher, theorist and naturalist. He is a two-time Pulitzer Prize winner for general non-fiction and has been hailed as Darwin’s natural heir. He has had a lifelong obsession with ants, discovering how they communicate through pheromones, he is most famous for the publication in 1975 of Sociobiology: The New Synthesis, a work of deep insight that advanced evolutionary thinking and proved a Darwinian manifesto, describing social behavior from the ants to humans. His speech focused on bio-diversity, the theme for the dinner.

Keynote speaker, Dr. E.O. Wilson

Other speakers included:
Clive Cussler, Ph.D. –World famous adventure author and undersea explorer. His National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA) has overseen the discovery of over 60 historically significant underwater wreck sites, donating all proceeds and artifacts to scientific and educational institutions.

Rev. David A. Dolan –Chair of the Southern California chapter of the Explorers Club, Rev. Dolan has combined exploration and adventure with philanthropic and humanitarian endeavors throughout the world and here at home in the U.S.A.

Scott W. Hamilton –Noted explorer and scientist, Scott Hamilton has been commissioned by NASA to test space technology in extreme conditions and has helped develop and test many low light undersea vision technologies now in use.

Peter E. Hillary –Son of the late Sir Edmund Hillary, Peter Hillary is, in his own right, a noted explorer, lecturer and author who has himself carried on the Hillary tradition of exploration, adventure and philanthropy.

Lee M. Talbot –Dr. Talbot has served as an environmental advisor to three U. S. presidents, as head of Environmental Sciences for the Smithsonian Institution and is world renowned for his work in the science of ecology.

Special Guest: William A. Anders (Major General, USAF Reserve, Ret.) was honored at the Explorers Club’s 2008 Lowell Thomas Awards this past October but was unable to attend. Anders was backup pilot for Gemini XI and Apollo 11, pilot for Apollo 8, the first lunar orbit mission. He has logged more than 6,000 hours flying time.

The dinner concluded at 12:30A but time seemed to fly by. It was an interesting evening and weekend to say the least! One the Aughey’s will not soon forget.

An Evening With Dr. Jane Goodall…

On Wednesday evening, March 18th, the Augheys were fortunate to have the opportunity to attend a lecture and private cocktail event at Denver University by none other than Dr. Jane Goodall. Rita has read most of her books and truly admires her work. The event was put on by a local non-profit group called Global Explorers.

The cocktail event was intimate and gave attendees the chance to meet Dr Jane and speak to her personally. She focused on trying to speak to the students who were in the room. There were about 75 people at the cocktail event.

Jane Goodall poses with a student...

Afterwards all were lead to the lecture hall.  There were an estimated 700 people there to be inspired by her words and life experiences at her Gombe Reserve in Africa studying one of what she calls “the 5 great apes”, chimpanzees.  (The other 4 are gorillas, orangutans, bonobos and the great  “white” ape-humans.) Although she is small in stature, Jane’s presence was indomitable as she approached the podium to speak. Her words were sincere and her message direct. She spoke about how her experiences over the years with her chimps have shown her that there are vast similarities between their species and ours. Whatever your origin of species belief is, there is no denying that chimps are our closest relative on the tree of life (science tells us that they share 96% of their DNA with us.)

She told the story of when she was beginning her career in Africa. She set out one day to follow one of the chimps into the forest. She followed as the chimp led her deeper and deeper sometimes having to bellycrawl to get through the thick growth. The chimp got ahead of her and she thought she had lost him. She crawled through a thick area of growth and found the great chimp sitting in a small clearing, almost as if waiting for her. She sat next to him and between them was a piece of fruit on the ground. She slowly picked it up and offered it to the chimp. He knocked the fruit out of her hand but then held on to her hand as if to say, “I appreciate the gesture but really don’t want the fruit.”. The chimp then left and Jane did not follow. She said at that moment she was in awe of the wordless exchange of emotions that had just transpired. Her point of the story was how interconnected life on our planet is.

She then talked about her international program called “Roots and Shoots” where young people are encouraged by the Jane Goodall Institute to be good stewards of the planet by identifying problems in their communities and carrying out projects that help to solve those problems. So many great projects have been completed through this program. This give young people the chance to make a difference!

Jane noted that she travels 300 days a year. At age 75 that is pretty amazing and shows a great dedication on her part. She was bestowed the honor of being an “Ambassador of Peace” by UNESCO and she takes this position very seriously.

She is passionate about conserving our natural resources and finding ways to bring solutions to the destruction of habitats and extinction of species primarily as it relates to primates. If we all could be just minutely as conscious about this as she is imagine what we might achieve to that end!

After her lecture all were invited to have her sign books. Of course Rita brought a first edition that Jane wrote in 2002 for her to sign. She was gracious and let us take her picture as well. 

Art, Rita & Brandon with Jane after the event.

It was such a treat of an evening and one that left the 3 of us thinking about her messages!

The Kiss of a Wolf…

The morning of January 18th started out like any other, except the weather was expected to be a balmy 61 degrees in Denver! Sensing this was very much out of the norm for Winter in the West, Art and Rita decided this would be a great opportunity to get outdoors and venture out on yet another adventure…..they knew exactly what they were going to do.They jumped in the Jeep and headed South in Colorado. About 2 hours later, they reached their destination just West of Colorado Springs in a small town called Divide. There they found the most interesting place, the Colorado Wolf and Wildlife Center. This center is an animal sanctuary which cares for approximately 17 wolves, 9 foxes and 6 coyotes.

Why wolves? Prior to the 1940′s wolves were a natural part of the Colorado ecosystem. Unfortunately, in the early 1940′s the US Government succumbed to pressure from the many ranchers and enacted laws that made it legal to shoot and kill wolves in the state. Within just a short period of time the last of the wild wolf population in Colorado were extinguished. Sadly, wolves no longer roam the Colorado landscape. This has created a devastating domino effect in the ecology of Colorado.

By removing one of the state’s top predators, the result is elk and deer populations have exploded over the years. Without the wolves to keep the herds on the move, they have not had to migrate to various spaces for grazing and have overgrazed grassland expanses to the point that many of the herds are now running out of food and starving. Additionally, without the wolves to cull the herds of the weak and sick they are contracting diseases like Chronic Wasting Disease. This is the elk and deer equivalent of mad cow disease which can devastate whole herds and can threaten their very existence as a species. Over grazing also affects other species that rely on healthy flora systems like birds, rabbits and many others. Currently it is estimated that there are roughly 100,000 more elk than needed for healthy elk population in Colorado. Due to the lack of wolves the State has increased and encouraged the number of hunting licenses each year to try to keep elk and deer populations under control. Unfortunately, hunters don’t have the incentive to seek out the sick and weak of the herds and they remain to infect or weaken the remaining animals. All of this threatens the natural order of the ecosystem.

The Center was established 17 years ago for the purpose of conservation and rescue of all types of wolves. The founder, Darlene Kobobel was an employee at a local animal shelter in Colorado Springs at the time. One afternoon she was routinely walking the dogs at the shelter when one of her managers informed her that the animal she had on her leash was a wolf and was slated for euthanasia that afternoon. After much persuasion, they agreed to let her adopt the wolf. She took it home and 17 years later her passion for the species has resulted in the Center.

Upon arriving there, Art and Rita were escorted to the wolf enclosures by their guide, Bonnie. There were roughly 15 other folks in the group. Bonnie led the group around the enclosures pointing out each of the wolves and educating the group about each of them. The center has two species of wolves, Timber wolves and Arctic wolves. They also have a hybrid between the two which would never happen in nature as the wolf species would never come upon each other due to the fact that their territories are vastly different and distant. Breeders apparently allowed the species to create the hybrid wolves.

Bonnie told stories of how certain wolves were rescued from roadside zoos where they were kept in deplorable cages and malnourished. Others were rescued from private owners who thought it would be cool to have a wolf as a pet only to find out they could not manage them once they matured. Others came from opportunistic profiteers who thought they could make money on the wolves through photo ops or other business ventures.

The group learned that domestic dogs descended from wolves. However, the bite of a wolf can extol 1,500 pounds per square inch where the bite from a common house dog is about 350 pounds per square inch! A wolf can hear sound from over 7 miles away and can sense smells from up to 2 miles away. They are elusive and due to their great senses are difficult to observe in the wild. That’s why this Center is such a great institution….people can get close and personal with these graceful creatures and learn that they are not the big bad threat that they have been burdened with but in fact, an important part of the natural order of things. In fact, Bonnie indicated that in the entire 1900′s there was not one recorded instance of a healthy wild wolf attacking a human. Humans are not considered prey and therefore are avoided by wolves at all costs in the wild. At the end of the tour Bonnie stood on a small hill and told the group to mimic her as she howled. She then let out a very high pitch howl to which the group mimicked. She did this again and the group reciprocated. Just then, to the amazement of all, the wolves and the coyotes all began to howl in unison! The group just stood in silence and listened to the animals’ serenade….it was utterly amazing and certainly left everyone in awe!

After the tour, Art and Rita made arrangements with the founder, Darlene, to accompany her for an up close and personal experience with her wolves. She has certain wolves that are called “Ambassador wolves” which are those socialized (somewhat) to being around people. After a briefing on how to act and not act around the wolves they all went into the enclosure. They were told not to make fast or aggressive moves and not to hover over the wolves as they sense this as a threatening position. Once in the enclosure (through two separate gate systems, yikes) they were informed that the wolves (four of them – three pups and an Alpha male named Shunka) would come to them and sniff them to sense all aspects of them. As Art and Rita were being sniffed, the wolves were deciphering whether these beings were male or female, sick or healthy, where they have been, sensing if they were uneasy or threatening and basically forming a mental image of them so they can remember them in the future.

Once the wolves finished sniffing, Art and Rita were told to kneel on the ground as the wolves would finish their assessment of them by licking (kissing) their face (ok and mouth) which is a form of greeting wolves do to each other. They were told that not reciprocating the wolf’s “kiss” is considered an insult to them and can upset them – something one should avoid while in close proximity! To be honest, knowing the amount of pressure a wolf can exact in their bite made this process very intimidating! Rita kept thinking about how they can sense uneasiness which made the situation even a little more overwhelming. How does one go through this process without feeling uneasy and what the heck did that form say that we signed before coming into the enclosure?? Once the wolves were satisfied that Art and Rita were ok (thank goodness!) they allowed them to roam their enclosure freely with Darlene. The wolves were very gracious and courteous hosts to the Augheys. They allowed pictures to be taken of them and were generally very congenial. However, never did either Art or Rita forget that these were wild animals and treated them with great respect and followed all the rules they were instructed to follow.

Once Art and Rita left the enclosure they were again greeted by Bonnie. She had told them that recently she was petting Shunka through the enclosure and Shunka unknowingly put pressure on her arm causing her to come into contact with the live electric wire around the enclosure. This sent 9,000 volts of electricity through her and then into Shunka. Luckily neither were seriously injured but Shunka associated the pain of the jolt with Bonnie and to this day does not like Bonnie. Art and Rita were walking to the fox enclosure beside Bonnie. Shunka was in his enclosure and Bonnie (on the outside) stopped and said hi to Shunka. The wolf beared ALL of his teeth and growled incessantly at her….the same wolf that had just “kissed” Art and Rita! Suffice to say, they were glad Shunka sized them up as “ok” beings!

As Art and Rita were saying goodbye to Darlene and Bonnie, Darlene commented that the Center is currently trying to gain permission by the state to reintroduce wolves back into Colorado’s wildlife population for the many reasons noted above. Their work is tireless and unending as they battle ranchers who ignorantly sense these animals as the major threat to their livestock. Research has shown that while wolves have been known to attack livestock, the number of these types of occurrences are limited. This is why research, conservation and education of wildlife is so important. Sadly, our government differs on this point. Effective January 14th, the grey wolf was removed from protection under the Endangered Species Act by the Bush Administration in a sweeping 11th hour bid to gut the environmental act….go figure! Hopefully good science research and passionate wildlife advocates will prevail.

To visit the Center’s website, click here.

One Saturday in St. Louis…

Now that the Presidential election is over, it is clear that history has been made and change is in the air. Interestingly, the “change” from this election has been in tow for quite some time as was evidenced by a weekend trip the Aughey’s took in mid October. This account was deliberately delayed in sending until after the election out of respect for the election process (so as not to sway anyone’s vote or opinion one way or the other.).Art and Rita decided to embark on another mini-weekend adventure. This time to the beautiful gateway city to the West of St Louis. Having never been there, they thought it would be fun to explore the city of Lewis and Clarke and the city where early American explorers crossed the Mississippi to forge new territory and unprecidented opportunity.

Friday PM-
Unfortunately, traffic leaving Chi was not to be cooperative! It seemed especially conjested leaving the City on this particular evening. They wondered why so many people were heading West? They would soon discover this answer! What should have been a 5 hour drive actually took 6 1/2! In addition to the congested traffic they were plagued with rain and poor visibility. Needless to say, the weekend was not off to a great start! Upon arrival they checked into their hotel (at 11:30P) looking for quiet and solitary comfort. Instead, upon arrival to the dwntwn hotel lobby they were greeted by 3,000 teens….all there for a National band competition!! Many were “dressed” in pajamas carrying boxed pizzas and shuffling across the lobby looking for their dinnermates. Art & Rita were happy that their room was on the concierge level away from the bustling teen pandamonium. They settled in with no plans defined for the weekend.

Saturday-
Upon awakening Rita decided to peruse through the local visitor guide in the room while Art turned on the local news. Interestingly they heard on the news that then Presidential candidate Barack Obama was scheduled to hold a rally under the archway at Noon! Whatever your political affiliation, it is clear that history was made in America as it elected this person as the first African-American President. Having never been to a Presidential Campaign rally they thought it would be interesting to attend one. Their concern was Rita’s complete and utter fear of large crowds! Not quite bordering chlostrophobia, her fear of being trapped amidst thousands with no way out is akin to being buried alive in her mind. (Ok so now you know one of her weaknesses!!) With this psychological hurdle did they dare brave the crowds?? It was quite a dilemma. Since they missed the DNC in Denver they thought…how often does one get to participate in what might be a significant historical event?! Rita summed up as much courage as she could and they headed for the Lite Rail down to Archway park…phobia in tow! It was an easy commute and upon arriving they were met by thousands and thousands standing in line to screen through security. As they stood in line (blocks from the entrance) it reminded them of a peak-season day at WDW. People were shuffling forward as Obama-vendors were hocking their Obama-mania wares. Two african-amer ladies in front of them were interested in all the wares. One of them was looking over various TShirts and softly commented that she didn’t want one with Joe Biden on it. Rita couldn’t help overhearing and burst out laughing and they all started laughing! Sensing how the comment might have been percieved, the lady said she wanted the captain on her TShirt not the first mate and giggled. She didn’t find one she liked and kept on moving. Further up the way there was a lady signing up volunteers for voter turnout who was wearing an unusual Obama button that Rita wanted for a friend (it was a campaign button written in Hebrew.). She asked the lady where she got the button and the lady offered it to Rita. This kind gesture took Rita off guard and she offered to pay for it. The lady insisted that Rita take the button explaining that she could get another. Rita thanked this stranger profusely and accepted the small but generous gesture. (Friend for whom this button was sent….Shalom!) Isn’t this what change and unity is all about??

They screened through security and stood directly under the center of the arch waiting for the rally to begin…..in 1 1/2 hours. The sea of faces was more colorful than the corals of the great barrier reef! There was an estimated crowd of 100,000! Music was blaring and entertainment was keeping the crowd happy. They were about 100 yards from the podium. Suddenly the crowd looked away from the podium toward the capital building and started screaming. They thought it was Obama but it was too early for him. Suddenly thousands of people appeared over the hill toward a previously roped off area. It was an amazing site! Like watching the soldiers coming over the hill at Antietum.

Meanwhile, Art was trying to get pictures of the magnitude of the crowds on his iPhone. Rita was trying not to think of the magnitude of the crowds by observing those around her. She noticed two Swat team officers standing atop their vehicle scanning the surrounding buildings with high powered binoculars. Not finding comfort with that (at all) Rita focused more closely around her. There was a group of african-amer ladies who were chatting. Although not part of the conversation, they directed the discussion toward Rita as if part of it. One of them introduced herself to the other two as Dr Corrinne. She was a dentist who works in an indigent clinic locally. She explained she got her education in America and in Namibia. She was very fair complected and thin. She was also refinely dressed and very beautiful. She seemed to be very confident. As time drew closer for Obama’s appearance on stage she seemed to lose her refinement becoming giddy like a teen girl at a pop concert. She said she wouldn’t be this excited if Denzel Washington were appearing! Suddenly the speaker at the podium announced Obama and the crowd errupted in screams and cheers so loud it was deafening! Everyone was standing on tip-toes to catch a glimpse of him. The pandamonium was incredible! He spoke eloquently and directly about his platform. Much like his appearances on TV he spoke with confidence and candor. The crowd seemed to drink in every word. One could hear “amen” and “praise the Lord” spoken from various listeners here and there. In a crowd this size there was expectation of agitation and possible chaos-but quite the contrary….folks were pleasant and abiding! One woman was short and having a hard time seeing Obama so a person (seemingly a complete stranger) near her helped her jockey a better viewing vantage. It was a very surreal to experience thousands from different classes, races, genders, and socio-economic statuses mixing and coming together for one common purpose. Never did discord or anger break out. At the end of Obamas speech the crowd cheered and clapped endlessly. Some had tears in their eyes (joyful tears!). As the event drew to a close the crowd quietly and orderly dispersed.

Now months later it is clear that these supporters indeed had a mission in mind. They appeared at the polls on election day as they did this day with a clear message – change!